The loafer: the flat shoe that lasts a full office day
Unlike a ballet flat, a loafer has structure: a heel counter at the back that holds the heel in place, a high vamp that wraps over the top of the foot and a thicker sole. This construction completely changes how it behaves in wear. The foot is held, it doesn't slip, and the sole cushions hard surfaces better.
This is what makes it the only truly credible flat shoe in a demanding professional environment, where a ballet flat will look more casual. Paired with straight-leg trousers or a suit, a smooth leather loafer looks as polished as a pump, without the constraint of a heel.
Loafer styles
The horsebit loafer is recognisable by its horizontal metal bar across the top of the foot. It is the dressiest and most recognisable version, the one that works best with workwear.
The penny loafer features a leather strap with a slot in the centre. More understated and more classic, it can be worn with jeans as easily as with suit trousers.
The slipper is the most minimal: no horsebit, no strap, a plain vamp and often a thinner sole. It is the most elegant shape for evening, and the lightest to wear.
Find these definitions in our shape guide.
Breaking in: a step not to skip
A new loafer always feels a little tight, and that's normal: its structure is stiffer than a ballet flat's. The leather lining and the vamp relax over the first few wears to mould precisely to the volume of your foot.
Wear the pair two or three times for short periods, at home or for half a day, before taking them out for a full day. This is especially true for a horsebit loafer, whose bar slightly stiffens the top of the foot.
An important point on sizing: a loafer should have no play at the heel. If your heel slips out as you walk, the pair is too big. It is the only type of style where systematically going up a size can be a mistake. Check the fit advice on each product page and our size guide.
How to wear loafers
With straight-leg or pleated trousers, the loafer is in its natural element. With raw denim jeans slightly turned up, it creates a very effective smart-casual contrast. With a midi skirt or a flowing dress, it balances the femininity of the volume with a more masculine base.
Socks are entirely legitimate here: a ribbed sock in a contrasting shade, fine knit under a skirt, a white sock with jeans. See our socks.
Frequently asked questions
Which loafer should I choose for the office?
A horsebit loafer in smooth leather in a sober shade. The horsebit gives the dressiest finish, and smooth leather stands up to daily wear while being easy to care for. The penny loafer is a more discreet and equally versatile alternative.
How do women wear loafers?
With straight-leg trousers to keep them in their natural element, with turned-up jeans for a smart-casual contrast, or with a midi skirt to balance the volume with a more structured base. A contrasting sock enhances the look.
Do leather loafers stretch over time?
Yes. The leather lining and the vamp mould to your foot over the first few wears. Wear the pair two or three times for short periods before a full day. Be careful not to size up too much, however: in a loafer, your heel should not slip out as you walk.
